A Soup for All Seasons

It's finally starting to feel like spring in northern New Jersey, cold in the mornings, but warm enough for me to have my windows open on my way home from work. It's a slightly fickle time for foodies. Here we are, ready to fully embrace the bounty of spring, but not quite comfortable giving up our coats. Lately, I've been craving an almost oxymoronic dish: hearty, healthy, and warming, yet with just a tease of spring. The answer is nothing short of sublime and simple: soup au pistou.
Soup au pistou hails from the south of France, the regions closest to Italy. It will come as no surprise that many of the ingredients, from the pasta to the pesto-like garnish, give the soup an Italian feel. What follows is a basic recipe, but don't hesitate to add your favorite vegetables or leave out others. I've used chicken stock as a base, but omitted any additional meat. If you prefer, use vegetable stock to keep the soup vegetarian. For a main course soup, add diced chicken with the onions in the first step. Serve with breadsticks and round the meal out with a seasonal fruit crisp for a hearty, yet healthy way to wait for spring.

Soup Au Pistou - Serves 4
2 Tbsp olive oil
1 small onion, diced
1 clove garlic, cleaned but whole
2 ribs celery, peeled and sliced
2 medium carrots, peeled and diced
1 Idaho potato, peeled and diced
2 Roma tomatoes, seeded and diced
1 small zucchini, seeded and diced
3 quarts chicken stock
1 bay leaf
1/2 cup French green beans, cut into soup spoon pieces
15 strands dried linguine pasta, broken into matchstick size pieces

In a large pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and saute until soft, but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic clove, celery, potato, and carrots. Cook another 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and the zucchini. Mix the vegetables before adding the stock and the bay leaf. Season to taste. Add the beans and bring the soup to a boil. In order for the pasta to cook properly, the soup must be boiling. Stir the soup every so often until the pasta is fully cooked. Serve garnished with pistou.

Pistou
1 bunch basil, stems removed
2 cloves garlic
1/3 cup olive oil
3 Tbsp toasted pine nuts
Salt and Pepper to taste
Optional: 1 tbsp each parmesan cheese and sun dried tomatoes

In a food processor, grind the garlic and nuts until minced. Add salt and pepper to help break down the garlic. Add the basil and grind until minced. Drizzle in the oil to form a paste. Finish with cheese and tomatoes if using. Extra pistou will keep one week if keep chilled.

Notes: for a heartier soup, add 1 cup of tomato juice with the stock. For a lighter soup, omit the potato and use vegetable stock.

Having a moment

Some of the best advice I have ever been given in the food service industry came from an unlikely source: the happy-go-lucky class clown of my cooking school group. Nothing against this person; he and I just never really saw eye to eye on many issues, but we did enjoy each other's company. His words before I was about to complete a major part of my formal culinary education remain with me over three years later.

Part of the CIA program is a series of practical cooking exams, one prior to externship, the other prior to AOS graduation. Students are required to complete all components of a set menu and answer 10 oral questions. Menus are provided a month before ever stepping into the practical kitchen, but are chosen out of a hat the day of the exam. Questions are selected from a list of almost 500 ranging from regional Asian cooking to product identification and food safety. I think it's pretty obvious why I was nervous before taking my first practical! Despite proving myself as a top notch student, I was still uncertain as to what to expect during this exam.

A few hours before I was to take this exam, my friend tried to calm me down with the following words, "Migton, why are you freaking out? Go in there and cook like you know how to cook."

It was so simple really. Trust your instincts. Take a deep breath and enjoy the process. Nerves only get in the way.

2 practical passes, an AOS graduation, and a BPS degree with honors later, I still remember those words when I feel myself getting anxious in the kitchen. Cook like you know how to cook. Once I remember those words, I put myself back in the moment of what I am doing. The nerves never really go away, but the instincts come back even stronger.

Cook like you are cooking for yourself. If the food you just put on the plate is something you would want to be served, congratulations, you are successful. A competent cook knows when he or she has done a good job and trust me on this one, the next plates will also be wonderful. Cook with love, cook with passion, and above all else, cook like you know how to cook.

While I choose not to discuss any aspect of my professional life on this blog, I welcome comments and questions at Chris_migton@yahoo.com.

See you at the stove,
Chris

Restaurant Week: Craftbar

One of my favorite events happens twice a year: NYC Restaurant Week. For 2 sets of weekdays in the winter and summer, many of New York's finest eateries feature a $24.07 prix fixe lunch and $35 dinner. Considering how easy it is for an entree alone to cost $35, this certainly is a great way to try some famed restaurants without taking out a second mortgage. Recently, I tried Craftbar, an off-shoot of create-a-meal Craft.

I tried making a reservation for Craftbar for 1:30 PM on Monday January 28th. Opentable.com informed me that 2 PM was the only available time for that day and I grabbed it, thinking that Craftbar must really be booked.

My dining companion and I arrived 15 minutes early to a mostly empty restaurant. I began to wonder why I was unable to get the time I wanted. We were escorted to a corner table, my favorite table configuration. They don't believe in table cloths at Craftbar; instead, the tables are covered with brown paper. I suppose this makes turning tables easier and can be fun for impromptu games of tic tack toe as you wait for your server to take your order.

We were handed menus, perhaps the longest menus I'd seen for any Restaurant Week menu. Our server was laid back and casual, no stuffy service here! Our order was taken promptly and drinks appeared within a reasonable amount of time. My ginger martini was poured right in front of me from a small cocktail shaker. When our server realized that there was not enough liquid in the shaker, he quickly left the table and returned a split second later with more martini mix in another shaker. I began to wonder if the signature cocktails are premixed and left to chill.

I started to glance around the dining room while we waited for our starters. All of the servers wear the depressing uniform of a muted gray long sleeve t-shirt and their own jeans. No aprons, nothing identifying them as staff other than their proximity to the POS system.


My chickpea fries with black olive aioli were more of a discovery of texture rather than of flavor. The smooth chickpea puree was encased in some sort of batter; my dining companion described it like eating flan. Her coppa fritters were more fritter than coppa; crunchy balls of firm polenta with the barest mince of coppa. The golden raisins served with them added a nice touch.

As soon as our appetizers were cleared, new silverware hit the table, and our entrees arrived. My buccatini with clams, merguez and mustard greens was well cooked, if not light on the lamb sausage, greens, and overtly enthusiastic on the chives. It also could have used a touch more salt, which was not provided on the table. Sorry, Craftbar, but your food is not perfect enough for there to be no chance for a diner to alter it to her preference.
My companion enjoyed her braised short ribs with beets and onions. The short rib was fork tender and the beets were nicely cooked in cranberry juice. This dish, like mine, was also heavy on the chives.

Dessert and coffee followed. Surprisingly, the milk for my coffee was served piping hot, a nice change from ice cold milk that cools coffee on contact.
My almond parfait with citrus soup was creamy and loaded with almond flavor. The "soup" was bitter, reminiscent of pith, and served with inedible kumquat and lemon slices. My companion's chocolate cake was served with lovely malted milk ice cream. The cake itself was dense, almost to the point of being dry, and rich.
Craftbar is worth the $24.07 Restaurant Week price of admission, but I’m not sure I would run back for a full price sit down dinner. I would, however, enjoy stopping in for a snack of those chickpea fries and another ginger martini.

Rib Stickin' Vegan

Like many foodies, I often find myself going through "phases," times when I'll favor certain ingredients or eschew others depending on my mood, time of year, and food supply conditions. Trust me, the e coli spinach outbreak was painful!
In keeping with my New Year's outlook, I'm in the process of rethinking some of my eating habits, hopefully making some changes that will be more than phases. I know I'm not the only one trying to do this. Around this time of year, many people vow to get healthier, make lifestyle changes, and, in the most simple terms, atone for holiday sins.
Healthy food need not be a punishment! If you're tired of stale rice cakes and frozen diet meals that make you feel hungrier than you did before the microwave dinged, stay with me.
The following recipe will get you at least 2 of the recommended servings of vegetables in one meal. It's vegetarian, but leave out the optional ingredients to make it vegan. Hot, hearty, and perfect for a cold winter weeknight, this dish can be made in less than 45 minutes.

Savory Bean Stew over Roasted Cauliflower
For stew:
3 Tbsp vegetable oil
1 medium onion, diced
1 clove garlic, minced
1 15oz can kidney or black beans, drained and rinsed well
1 bag baby spinach
1 tsp chili powder
Salt and pepper to taste
Optional: Your favorite cheese

For roasted cauliflower:
2 Tbsp vegetable oil
1 small head cauliflower, cleaned and sliced into 1/2" sheets
Red pepper flakes to taste
Salt and pepper to taste

Method:
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. In an oven proof saute pan, heat the oil over high heat for the cauliflower until it shimmers. Add the cauliflower and sear until golden on all sides, about 8 minutes. Add salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes. Place the pan in the oven. While the cauliflower roasts, prepare the stew.

For the stew: In another saute pan, heat vegetable oil over medium heat until it shimmers. Add the minced onion and saute until transparent, about 3 minutes. Add the minced garlic and lower the heat to low. Keep the garlic moving to prevent it from burning. Add the beans to the pan and toss to coat. Season the mixture with salt, pepper, and the chili powder.

When cauliflower is tender after about 10 minutes of cooking and the bean mixture is hot, add the spinach to the beans. Cook for another 2 minutes, adding additional salt and pepper. When spinach is wilted, turn off the heat.

To plate: Place a good size "sheet" of cauliflower on the bottom of the plate. Top with 1/3 of the stew. Garnish the stew with some of the crispier cauliflower bits and a sprinkling of cheese if desired. Grab a fork and get ready to rethink vegetarian cuisine!

Remaining roasted cauliflower can be used as an omelet filling, mixed in with pasta, mashed and used as a spread or dip, or even cooled and mixed into your favorite meatloaf recipe instead of eggs.

Extra stew can be used over rice or even heated and served over tortilla chips!

Enjoy!
Chris

Saturday Survival

Turn up the heat
No second guesses
Will it all over
To the instinctive alter ego
The primitive banshee
Who swears and slams pans
Claws and gets it done

Do not question her.

Simply let her go

My inner warrior who wails her battle cry
As I am the one who
Gets the pat on the back and signs the paycheck

Virtual Foodie

So after graduating from culinary school and diving headfirst into an exciting full time job, I'm returning from my literary hiatus.

One of the easiest ways in which we can tell food culture has gone mainstream is to look at all the different medias in which food has infiltrated. Gourmandese has certainly infused itself into many forms of expression. Other than the obvious: television, magazines, and stacks of cookbooks, the form of media I thought would be the final frontier has finally succumbed to the army of the edible. I speak, of course, of video games.

Hold up...before you click to the next blog or heaven forbid read a book, hear me out. The internet is a truly powerful creation and simulation games are an easy way to avoid reality. Just think of the possibilities! Without ever leaving my desk chair, I can manage a restaurant, sail the world in search of chocolate ingredients, and sling burgers that would make both a king and a clown proud. There are plenty of food related games out there, but which ones are truly worth the waste of time?

Diner Dash - Ah, the classic. Seat guests in an ever expanding restaurant. This game was the first break out food game hit. Not only is the original now available on cell phones, but the game has launched, at time of writing, four sequels, almost putting it in the same league as many MA shooter games. While I will admit to staying up until 3am playing this game after realizing that the MSN Games 1 hour free trial was much longer than 1 hour, the game itself takes a while to get exciting. Like many games, the first few tutorial levels are overtly easy, building up false confidences. As the game progresses, it gets frustratingly addictive, as one of my roommates found out, and repeditive. Not a good combination when you have a paper to write, yet are unable to tear yourself away from the line of virtual customers. Out of the 3 of the 4 versions I have tried, the 3rd was the most enjoyable. From a professional standpoint, this game is minimally realistic.

Cake Mania -Help Jill run a bakery by completing cake orders for your line of guests. Get ready to release your inner baker! Unlike Diner Dash, this game somehow struck a cord. Just like in a real bakery, you need time management and a strong sense of sequence. There is some room for creativity in this game, as a cake stand allows you to showcase a cake in hopes of selling it. Just like Diner Dash, the first few levels are basic, but it does get harder. Cake Mania 2 is practically identical to the original.

Burger Rush - For fans of both food and matching games comes Burger Rush. Fill customer orders by matching adjacent shapes. Feel free to try it, but I beat this one easily. For a better challenge, try BeJeweled or Chainz.

Sushi Chef - As a raw fish fan, I really wanted to like this game, it just never happened. According to what your customer orders, click the food as it spins around a sushi bar. There was no excitement; the game kind of made me dizzy. Save your time.

Chocolatier - This game is more of a stategy game than an arcade game. Start as a lowly chocolate maker and work your way up to a global confectionarian. I like games with stories, and this one certainly has an interesting story. Buy low, sell high, and keep your factories stocked with exotic ingredients. Fans of the Tradewinds series will eat this one up!

Stand o'Food - I admit it: I tried it because the name made me laugh. This game is a combination of matching games and fast paced arcade action. The pace picks up quickly and although it is repeditive, I didn't get bored.

Cathy's Caribbean Club - Pretend to run an upscale smoothie bar. This game was frustrating; there was no way to be efficient! Club upgrades only made things worse, rather than better like in other games. From a professional standpoint, this game is even more unrealistic than Diner Dash. I am grateful that my experiences as a server were never this bad!

So take the time to enjoy some of these distractions. Just remember to get up once in a while and play with some real food!

Until next time,
Chris

Thinking Thanksgiving

As an avid reader and saver of food publications, I've grown accustomed to expecting certain magazine covers at specific times of the year: barbecue for the 4th of July, cookies for December, and of course, turkey for Thanksgiving. My mailbox has recently become plagued with pictures of perfectly roasted fowl set in "Grandma's" kitchen. These issues were written last year, when cranberries, pumpkin, and root vegetables were still in season, but other than the advertising copy, the years are indistinguishable.
Each year, every Thanksgiving issue proclaims it holds the secrets for perfect turkey, world's best side dishes, and pumpkin pie - better than ever! I'm starting to wonder now: if last year was so wonderful, why do I need another recipe for some variation of cranberry relish? And considering how popular fast food and ready made meals have become, how many of us are simply grabbing a can of jellied cranberry sauce off the shelf?
Thanksgiving is a tricky holiday for foodies. For those of us who cook professionally, it could be a time to show off to our extended family and cherished friends. After all, these people seek us out for dinner parties, is this not the perfect opportunity to solidify that reputation?
For my Thanksgiving feast, I'm going in the opposite direction. Sure, maple praline crusted breast of turkey with a spicy chili sauce and a side of braised endive would be tasty, but that's not tradition, and certainly not what my family expects. Part of being a great cook is knowing what will resonate with the diners, your audience.
For me, Thanksgiving will consist of the traditional lovingly roasted free-from-the-local-supermarket with coupon turkey, kid-approved vegetables, and slightly lumpy creme fraiche free mashed potatoes. After all, I'll be back in the restaurant soon enough!