Take Two

I used to say, as a restaurant critic, that one visit to a restaurant should be enough to evaluate the quality of the food and service. After all, in our personal lives, don't we usually give people and places only one chance to make that lasting first impression? Besides, in this current economy, why would you want to waste more money on an establishment that you didn't really enjoy the first time?

I stand corrected. My second visit to Ana Beall's Tea Room in Westfield, you know, the one I gave a glowing review to, will probably be my last.

Unlike the first time my friend and I decided to enjoy brunch there, the staff at Ana Beall's was severely lacking in the happy welcome department. Yes, Sunday brunch is one of your busiest times, but guests should never be made to feel like an inconvenience just for walking through the door. Our table, in an empty dining room, was the worst in the house. Granted, we had a lovely view of the kitchen, but the noise was very distracting.

I ordered the crepe of the day, looking forward to the marscarpone and blackberry filling our harried waitress promised. As soon as it was set in front of me, I winced. Without a doubt, I was facing the thickest, greasiest crepes I had ever seen. The small garnish of dried up julienne of Granny Smith apple and dried cranberries looked like a throwaway component that should have been. My first bite left me confused, something food should never do. Where were the blackberries? What happened to the marscarpone? All I tasted was orange zest. I put down my fork, wondering what had just happened. A month ago, I had enjoyed perfect quiche at this restaurant and now the chef can't even deliver on a basic crepe dish?

I stared at the plate, literally forcing myself to take another bite. Maybe the first was a fluke. Never before in my entire life have I been less motivated to eat a dish. I passed the plate to my friend, who took a dainty nibble of the berry confit on top of the crepe. At this point, our waitress came over to see what was wrong. After explaining some of the problems I had with the dish, she asked me if I would like something else. I ordered the curry eggs, thinking no CIA trained chef would be able to screw up scrambled eggs.

The eggs were brought with a side of toasted stale Wonder Bread instead of the pork sausage. It boggles my mind that Ana Beall's only replacement for a breakfast side is really dry toast. The plate also came with another side of the apple salad, only this one was noticeably drier and discolored. The eggs were cooked nicely, but there was absolutely no salt to be had in this dish. The red onions and grape tomatoes mixed in were a passable addition. The curry flavor was nothing special; I expect to find a jar of basic curry seasoning in the chef's pantry.

Our waitress brought our check and I glanced at it, thinking something must have been comped after the crepe situation. Apparently at Ana Beall's, goodwill is dead. I was charged for my eggs, the tea, the breadbasket. Honestly, this is probably the first time I've ever been to a restaurant where I have had a problem with the food and no effort was made to try to win me back. Give me a free dessert, comp the replacement dish, drinks on the house, scones to go. Nothing. And that, my friends, is my lasting impression of this place.

Don't get me wrong; I am not one of those diners who walks into a restaurant expecting to find fault with everything from the decor to the dessert simply to demand a reduced bill as restitution. I've seen people like that; I've served them, I've cooked for them. I certainly don't applaud them.

What truly bothers me, though, is that a new restaurant, in a poor economic climate, is unwilling to even attempt to bring a disappointed guest back through a simple gesture of goodwill.

The search for a great brunch place continues.

Restaurant Review: Ana Beall's Tea Room, Westfield

What makes a great restaurant? Is it the food? The service? The atmosphere? Or, could it be an establishment's ability to be what you need in the present moment?

Take for example a wonderful new restaurant in Westfield, Ana Beall's Tea Room just off South Ave. For years, literally, years, a dear friend and I have been searching for a respectable Sunday brunch location. We really aren't that picky. High quality, semi-healthy food, good hot beverages, a relaxed atmosphere, decent service, and please, no overpriced buffet. We had tried diners, upscale chains, and cheap-eats pig outs, yet nothing seemed to be what we were looking for. Finally, though, I think we have a place where we'll happily become bi-monthly regulars.

Ana Beall's is in an unassuming Victorian house not far from downtown Westfield. The bright yellow interior is as welcoming as the cheerful staff. After reading a favorable article on the tea room in The Star Ledger, I had called ahead to secure reservations. As I was led to a table on the restaurant's second floor, I was certainly happy I had. Ana Beall's was packed!

Like any busy restaurant, service was a little slow. Our poor waitress seemed to be taking care of the entire second floor by herself! The slight wait gave my friend and me some time to chat and notice the acoustics. While the atmosphere of the tea room is clean and tailored, the hardwood floors and general lack of sound-controlling fabrics made initial conversation difficult. After getting acclimated to talking at a slightly higher volume, though, we were able to continue our chat.

The teas at Ana's did not disappoint. My Versailles Lavender Earl Grey was fantastic. Lavender can be a difficult flavor to master; too much and the drink turns into eau de Bath and Body Works. Here, though, the floral notes were balanced with the savory bergamot. My friend greatly enjoyed her jasmine with flowers tea, calling it one of the best jasmine teas she's ever had.

Our entrees arrived soon after our tea. My vegetarian quiche of the day was light and flavorful. Goat cheese, tomatoes, red onion, and spinach were mingled with perfectly cooked eggs in a tender pastry crust. The side of pesto was a pleasant garnish. I do wish that the side of out of season melon had been omitted. My friend ordered the arugula and artichoke salad. The huge mound of arugula was tossed with a savory Parmesan vinaigrette and garnished with cranberries, red onion, cucumbers, and tomatoes. I have honestly never seen such a mammoth salad serving, but my friend cheerfully gobbled it up. Ana Beall's certainly gets an A in the semi-healthy category!

If you choose to go, do not miss the house made muffins and breads. The pastry chef is an alum of Gotham Bar and Grill, one of New York City's most celebrated restaurants. The bran muffins were hearty, crispy on the outside and perfectly moist on the inside. A real winner in the bread basket is the apple loaf. Lightly toasted and amazingly cake-like, this quick bread is a great accompaniment for tea.

Ana Beall's might be the perfect spot for a relaxing morning. As for me, I considered this Sunday morning to be a highly productive one; I found my new brunch spot.

http://www.anabeallstearoom.com/