Take Two

I used to say, as a restaurant critic, that one visit to a restaurant should be enough to evaluate the quality of the food and service. After all, in our personal lives, don't we usually give people and places only one chance to make that lasting first impression? Besides, in this current economy, why would you want to waste more money on an establishment that you didn't really enjoy the first time?

I stand corrected. My second visit to Ana Beall's Tea Room in Westfield, you know, the one I gave a glowing review to, will probably be my last.

Unlike the first time my friend and I decided to enjoy brunch there, the staff at Ana Beall's was severely lacking in the happy welcome department. Yes, Sunday brunch is one of your busiest times, but guests should never be made to feel like an inconvenience just for walking through the door. Our table, in an empty dining room, was the worst in the house. Granted, we had a lovely view of the kitchen, but the noise was very distracting.

I ordered the crepe of the day, looking forward to the marscarpone and blackberry filling our harried waitress promised. As soon as it was set in front of me, I winced. Without a doubt, I was facing the thickest, greasiest crepes I had ever seen. The small garnish of dried up julienne of Granny Smith apple and dried cranberries looked like a throwaway component that should have been. My first bite left me confused, something food should never do. Where were the blackberries? What happened to the marscarpone? All I tasted was orange zest. I put down my fork, wondering what had just happened. A month ago, I had enjoyed perfect quiche at this restaurant and now the chef can't even deliver on a basic crepe dish?

I stared at the plate, literally forcing myself to take another bite. Maybe the first was a fluke. Never before in my entire life have I been less motivated to eat a dish. I passed the plate to my friend, who took a dainty nibble of the berry confit on top of the crepe. At this point, our waitress came over to see what was wrong. After explaining some of the problems I had with the dish, she asked me if I would like something else. I ordered the curry eggs, thinking no CIA trained chef would be able to screw up scrambled eggs.

The eggs were brought with a side of toasted stale Wonder Bread instead of the pork sausage. It boggles my mind that Ana Beall's only replacement for a breakfast side is really dry toast. The plate also came with another side of the apple salad, only this one was noticeably drier and discolored. The eggs were cooked nicely, but there was absolutely no salt to be had in this dish. The red onions and grape tomatoes mixed in were a passable addition. The curry flavor was nothing special; I expect to find a jar of basic curry seasoning in the chef's pantry.

Our waitress brought our check and I glanced at it, thinking something must have been comped after the crepe situation. Apparently at Ana Beall's, goodwill is dead. I was charged for my eggs, the tea, the breadbasket. Honestly, this is probably the first time I've ever been to a restaurant where I have had a problem with the food and no effort was made to try to win me back. Give me a free dessert, comp the replacement dish, drinks on the house, scones to go. Nothing. And that, my friends, is my lasting impression of this place.

Don't get me wrong; I am not one of those diners who walks into a restaurant expecting to find fault with everything from the decor to the dessert simply to demand a reduced bill as restitution. I've seen people like that; I've served them, I've cooked for them. I certainly don't applaud them.

What truly bothers me, though, is that a new restaurant, in a poor economic climate, is unwilling to even attempt to bring a disappointed guest back through a simple gesture of goodwill.

The search for a great brunch place continues.

Scones, glorious scones!

Grande green tea latte with soy...grande green tea latte with soy...grande green tea latte with soy - oooh! scones!
Ever notice that no matter how many times you repeat a mantra, baked goods can quickly break you down? But step back from the glass display case for a moment. $4.25 for a scone? Guess again, my fellow foodies. Get ready to make a whole dozen for that and to top it off, these are more flavorful than anything you can order with your latte.
Dried Fruit and Nut Scones
Heat oven to 375 and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
2 C All purpose flour
1/3 C granulated sugar
3 Tbsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
1 stick unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
1/2 C dried apricots, chopped
1/4 C dried cranberries
1/4 C raisins (golden or dark)
1/2 C nut of your choice, chopped (pistachios or pecans are especially tasty)
3 1/4 C heavy cream
Method:
In a large bowl, mix the flour, baking powder, sugar, and salt. Add the cubes of butter and knead it into the dry ingredients until pea-sized clumps are formed. Add the dried fruit and nuts. Add the heavy cream and knead until the mix comes together in one ball. Stop kneading as soon as this happens. Portion the dough into 12 equal balls. Bake for 14 minutes, rotate, and bake another 14. Serve warm with your favorite hot beverage.
Optional:
Glaze the scones with a simple icing made from 1/2 C confectioners' sugar and 2 tsp water or milk.

Brownsugar Shortbread

I am a firm believer in simplicity. If you start with quality ingredients, you shouldn't need to add much to create an amazing finished dish. Take my recipe for shortbread cookies. 4 ingredients, one bowl, and melt-in-your-mouth cookies at the end. These are kid friendly, budget friendly, and if used to garnish a frozen dessert, dinner party friendly.

Combine 1 pound of light brown sugar and 4 cups all purpose flour in a large bowl. Chop 1 pound of unsalted butter into small cubes and crumble into the sugar/flour mix. Rub the butter bits into the dry ingredients until you have pea-sized pieces. Add 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract or your favorite flavoring and continue to blend until the dough can be formed into one large clump. This can also be done in a standing mixer with a paddle attachment. Wrap the dough in plastic and chill for at least 30 minutes.

Heat a non-convection oven to 375. Roll the dough as thick or as thin as you like. The thinner the dough, the crispier the finished cookie. If you plan to use these as garnish, roll 1/4 inch thick. If using as a stand alone dessert, roll 1/2 inch thick.

Cut the dough using a knife or your favorite cookie cutters. Bake on a parchment lined baking sheet until golden brown using the following guidelines.
For thin, small cookies, rotate after 5 minutes and checking after another 3.
For thicker cookies, rotate after 7 minutes and check after another 6.

Dust with confectioners' sugar and allow the cookies to cool. These are fantastic with vanilla ice cream.

Restaurant Review: Ana Beall's Tea Room, Westfield

What makes a great restaurant? Is it the food? The service? The atmosphere? Or, could it be an establishment's ability to be what you need in the present moment?

Take for example a wonderful new restaurant in Westfield, Ana Beall's Tea Room just off South Ave. For years, literally, years, a dear friend and I have been searching for a respectable Sunday brunch location. We really aren't that picky. High quality, semi-healthy food, good hot beverages, a relaxed atmosphere, decent service, and please, no overpriced buffet. We had tried diners, upscale chains, and cheap-eats pig outs, yet nothing seemed to be what we were looking for. Finally, though, I think we have a place where we'll happily become bi-monthly regulars.

Ana Beall's is in an unassuming Victorian house not far from downtown Westfield. The bright yellow interior is as welcoming as the cheerful staff. After reading a favorable article on the tea room in The Star Ledger, I had called ahead to secure reservations. As I was led to a table on the restaurant's second floor, I was certainly happy I had. Ana Beall's was packed!

Like any busy restaurant, service was a little slow. Our poor waitress seemed to be taking care of the entire second floor by herself! The slight wait gave my friend and me some time to chat and notice the acoustics. While the atmosphere of the tea room is clean and tailored, the hardwood floors and general lack of sound-controlling fabrics made initial conversation difficult. After getting acclimated to talking at a slightly higher volume, though, we were able to continue our chat.

The teas at Ana's did not disappoint. My Versailles Lavender Earl Grey was fantastic. Lavender can be a difficult flavor to master; too much and the drink turns into eau de Bath and Body Works. Here, though, the floral notes were balanced with the savory bergamot. My friend greatly enjoyed her jasmine with flowers tea, calling it one of the best jasmine teas she's ever had.

Our entrees arrived soon after our tea. My vegetarian quiche of the day was light and flavorful. Goat cheese, tomatoes, red onion, and spinach were mingled with perfectly cooked eggs in a tender pastry crust. The side of pesto was a pleasant garnish. I do wish that the side of out of season melon had been omitted. My friend ordered the arugula and artichoke salad. The huge mound of arugula was tossed with a savory Parmesan vinaigrette and garnished with cranberries, red onion, cucumbers, and tomatoes. I have honestly never seen such a mammoth salad serving, but my friend cheerfully gobbled it up. Ana Beall's certainly gets an A in the semi-healthy category!

If you choose to go, do not miss the house made muffins and breads. The pastry chef is an alum of Gotham Bar and Grill, one of New York City's most celebrated restaurants. The bran muffins were hearty, crispy on the outside and perfectly moist on the inside. A real winner in the bread basket is the apple loaf. Lightly toasted and amazingly cake-like, this quick bread is a great accompaniment for tea.

Ana Beall's might be the perfect spot for a relaxing morning. As for me, I considered this Sunday morning to be a highly productive one; I found my new brunch spot.

http://www.anabeallstearoom.com/

Slave to the Smell

One of the reasons I love cooking, baking, food in general is the way all of the senses are used. From the way a plate looks, to the feel flour and butter getting worked into pie crust dough, to the crackle of a fatty duck breast rendering as it hits a hot pan, the creation of a meal entices all of the senses. There's the obvious sense of taste being used, but my favorite is smell.
For as long as I can remember, I've had an acute sense of smell. I love the way my station fills with the aromas of yeast and sugar when I bake bread. Cold weather spices like nutmeg and cinnamon linger on the air like old friends, yet summer's lemon and berry aromas arrive in a burst and leave just as quickly. Even when I am about to enjoy a meal, I usually deeply inhale before sampling the first bite. Pause before your first bite of a ginger snap, juicy roasted chicken, or even that morning coffee and see how much more you are aware of the flavors before they ever hit your tongue.
My sense of smell, though, has gotten me into trouble. Like an overly enthusiastic Lab puppy not yet grown into his paws, my sense of smell sometimes runs me into doors. Take last week. Recently, I had received a coupon for a free Dunkacchino from Dunkin Donuts and decided to see if the drink lived up to the hype. The coupon proclaimed, "It's back!", leaving me to believe that many Dunkin regulars were clamoring for the return of this beverage. If people are clamoring, surely it must be worth trying.
After getting my free beverage, I continued my commute. Years of being a hot coffee consumer have taught me to wait a few moments before that first sip. As I let my drink cool, my car filled with the most enticing aromas. There was chocolate, reminiscent of childhood vacations to Hershey Park. There was sugar, warm like holiday baking. There was a slight undertone of coffee, welcoming like an easy Sunday morning. I kept inhaling, eagerly awaking the first sip of this concoction that was filling my car with joy.
I clasped the styrofoam cup in my hands and took a tentative taste, wondering if this would be one of those drinks to be savored slowly. But, something was wrong. There was no chocolate and there was certainly no coffee. All I tasted was watered down immitation vanilla flavoring with an overly sweet aftertaste! I took another sip, larger this time, thinking the first must have been a fluke. Nothing changed. If anything, this sip was more disappointing than the first.
I put the cup slowly back in my cup holder, wondering what had gone so wrong. My car was filled with the most enticing aromas that evoked happy memories, yet all I had to taste was a sham of a drink. I stared down the styrofoam cup as it continued to taunt my sense of smell.
Yes, sense of taste, you were let down with this one. Sense of smell? I hope you enjoyed the free air freshener.

Selfish, Selfless, and a Recipe

The food service industry is perhaps the most personal of all artistic outlets. Yes, one can feel connected to actors at a theater performance, go crazy at a rock concert, or even simply be moved by an incredible painting. Yet food is the only medium necessary for survival from a biological view. The "art" a chef creates nourishes on many different levels.
Before a dish is ever ordered, hours of prep work go into it. From sauce making, butchering, chopping, blanching, and even purchasing, good food requires dedication.
Sure, this is all great and the food service industry now sounds like a collective bunch of altruistic artists. But here's the catch, a reasonable cook can make good food, but a successful one can make food others enjoy and come back for. You might be the one in front of the stove, but you're not the one about to eat. You could create the best dish you've ever experienced, but if you're the only one who thinks so, you just made the equivalent of blob of Play Doh in a sculpture gallery. Who cares what you think if it doesn't resonate with anyone else?
There is also the flip side to this. How can you create a dish with integrity if you wouldn't even order it?
The answer is simple: seek out people who would order it and have them taste it. I recently faced this issue with banana sorbet. There are many foods I choose not to eat for personal reasons, but bananas are one of the few foods I flat out refuse to taste. I have never liked them and I am sure I never will, so having me taste a dish with them won't give me an accurate evaluation of the finished dish. So the following is my recipe for banana sorbet. I've been told it's good.

3 C granulated sugar
3.5 C hot water
2 Tbsp creme de banane liqueur
3 C banana puree (about 5 bananas)

Make a simple syrup by heating the water and sugar in a sauce pan over medium heat. All of the sugar should dissolve. Allow this to cool to room temperature. Measure 3 cups of simple syrup and combine with the liqueur and puree. Freeze in an ice cream freezer according to manufacturer's instructions. Place sorbet in a plastic container and cover the surface of the sorbet with plastic wrap. Allow sorbet to chill in the freezer for at least one hour.

Edo My Sushi!

Restaurant Review: Edo Sushi, New Brunswick, NJ

New Brunswick is a living oxymoron. It's a restaurant city, a college town, and yet driving and parking for the myriad of services offered by these two labels never ceases to be a nightmare. I think that's because road construction never ceases, but that's a whole other post.

A dear friend and I were able to make last minute lunch plans when, lo and behold, our work schedules meshed. The joys of maintaining a social life in this industry... After the holidays, both of us needed a little indulgence, but nothing extravagant. Edo Sushi was the perfect fit.

Edo is a quaint restaurant with enough options to please both sushi lovers and land lubbers. Like all good sushi places, Edo was spotlessly clean. If you ever enter a restaurant, especially one that focuses on serving highly perishable raw product that even hints at being unsanitary, leave immediately.

The menu at Edo is extensive and my friend and I needed some time to decide. Our green tea arrived moments after we ordered it, yet our friendly waitress gladly gave us extra time make our sushi choices. Sadly, the day for our lunch was a cold, rainy day, hardly raw fish weather. Luckily for us, Edo offers traditional udon and ramen noodle bowls. Hot broth and slurp-worthy noodles were made for rainy days!

In fitting with Edo's business lunch crowd focus, diners can choose from a variety of combo specials. A huge bowl of ramen in homemade broth with a spicy tuna roll for $12.95? I'm there!

Unlike other spicy tuna rolls I've had in the past, Edo keeps the tuna in solid pieces rather than mincing it fine before mixing it into the spicy sauce. Not only does this make for a nicer presentation, but the integrity of the fish is maintained. Mincing the fish means that the sushi chef can use scraps from cleaning the tuna, including the less savory bloodline, before mixing into chili mayo. Edo's way demonstrated their commitment to quality sushi.

Both of our soups were served piping hot. The broths were incredibly savory, rich with soy, scallions, and vegetable flavors, yet light.

Glancing around the dining room, my friend and I noticed we were the only people there. Yet Edo does a brisk take out and delivery lunch business. Considering the weather, I can't blame people for not wanting to leave their offices or dorms!

Our meal ended with green tea and red bean ice creams. Yes, it was cold outside. Yes, we started our lunch clutching the cups of green tea, but ice cream is always appropriate. Green tea ice cream is one of my favorite flavors, but the smooth, creamy red bean might be my new flavor of choice. Reminiscent of watermelon freshness and vanilla complexness, the ice cream was a perfect way to end a warming lunch.

After paying our ridiculously economical check, we realized that lunch for two had cost less than half of dinner for one at the nearby The Frog and the Peach. Amazingly, our experience at Edo was just as refreshing as an extravagant dinner.