Thursday, September 6, 2007

Color War: The Art of Presentation

Consuming food has evolved from a means of nourishment to an experience involving all five senses. We taste the food, hear the scraping of utensils on china, feel the textures, smell the aromas, and see what we are about to enjoy. Arguably, the first sense we use during this practice is sight, greatly adding to the concept "eat with the eyes". If this is indeed the case, presentation is more important than ever.

One presentation trend I hope is on the decline is adding finely diced red bell pepper to finished dishes. Sure, this is an easy way to add bright red to an otherwise dull plate. But is it ever worth sacrificing the delicate flavors of a perfect cheese omelet or lightly poached fish for a scattering of color? The same holds true for adding a sprinkle of almost dried parsley across the protein of an entree. Unless this specific herb will enhance the dish, it should not be used. In no way am I advocating never using fresh herbs to finish a plate. But why use parsley just for the green when it is just as easy to use chives, basil, rosemary, even mint, for the same color impact and some exciting flavor? Perhaps it's time to let parsley cash in its 401K and retire.

On the flip side, sometimes adding color must be done to preserve flavors. According to classical French cuisine, white pepper should be used in white dishes, while black must be used in darker dishes regardless of the flavor of the finished dish. Considering the sharpness of white pepper and the mellowness of black, this classic technique seems to sacrifice correct seasoning for pristine presentation.

I once worked for a French individual who fully subscribed to this idea. Everyday when I made mashed potatoes for my entremetier station, he reminded me to use white pepper. He thought that black specks made guests believe someone had burned the mashed potatoes. As I ground the pepper for the potatoes, I vowed to use it as sparingly as possible. Now, I've been described as an aggressive seasoner, something I am particularly proud of. When I eat something, especially in an elegant restaurant, I want to know that my food was seasoned. A scattering of black pepper in my potatoes makes me smile. Visible vanilla bean in my creme brulee indicates that the pastry chef does not cut costs with imitation extracts. Please, feed my eyes!

Chris

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Oh, let's face it. You just don't like peppers!